Day 18 hiking the Australian Alps Walking Track solo

Australian Alps Walking Trail, Hiking, Trail Journal

Wind, fog and a creek tumble—then a sweet reunion and a cosy night by the fire with my wife at Glen Wills.

Taylor’s Crossing to Sunnyside, Omeo Highway (21.5km) | TOTAL – 395.6km

It was so windy this morning that the trees and leaves were roaring, and the roar deepened the higher I climbed.

As Taylor’s Crossing is one of the lowest points of the track, I spent all morning walking uphill to regain elevation.

Luckily, there was a strong breeze, cloud cover and a sprinkling of rain to keep me cool.

As I reached about 1200 metres elevation, a thick fog hung in the air and the booming winds intensified further.

After 10 kilometres or so on largely well-formed 4wd tracks, I followed trail markers into the damp, dense forest.

The leaves were wet and slippery underfoot as I descended to Gill Creek, so I used a stick to stabilise myself.

Gill Creek itself was magic. Huge green ferns hung over a rushing stream, with moss covering tree limbs.

I tried to cross the stream without removing my shoes, by placing a long stick and several stones across its shallow waters.

But in the end I tumbled, and thought “We’ll f*ck it – I’ll be in the comfort of a dry motel room in a few short hours”, and proceeded through the water.

A steep climb up to a spur awaited me on the other side of the creek, which then veered onto an old 4WD track. Grey clouds, promising rain, remained overhead all morning.

At around 11.30am, I emerged from the wooded forest onto the sealed Omeo Highway.

With no sign of Jane, who I’d bet to the meeting point, I continued another 1.5km along Omeo Highway to Sunnyside – the point at which the trail recommences.

Jane was there in the Hilux waiting. We had got our wires crossed, but all worked out well, which was lucky as we didn’t have phone reception.

After exchanging cuddles and kisses, Jane swung my heavy pack onto the back seat and we headed to the Glen Wills Wilderness Retreat.

As we veered off the road and onto the property, we were greeted by a sign saying “No internet, no TV, no phone, no worries”.

The property, comprised of six or so bedrooms and communal living, was beautiful and we had it all to ourselves at just $120 a night. After chatting with the owner and his sister, we lit the combustion heater and enjoyed a hot shower – one I desperately needed!

I then set to work unpacking and sorting my gear, while Jane whipped up a beautiful curry loaded with fresh veggies. We spent the night cuddling in front of the fire.