Day 5 hiking the Australian Alps Walking Track solo

Lost, bush-bashed, crossed rivers barefoot, shared stories by the fire — a grueling 33km day ending at Whitzes Hut, counting down to Jane.

Bill Jones Hut to Whitzes Hut (33km, 10hrs) | TOTAL – 111.0km

Wow, what a day! And where to start? The beginning. I rose early, just after 5am, to a damp tent and sleeping bag, and brought all my belongings into the tin dirt-floor hut to pack under shelter.

It was a brisk but stunning morning, watching fog lift from the earth as the rising sun shot out a pink glow over the surrounding bush.

I set off at 6.30am, ready for my biggest day on trail. I made it to Hainsworth Hut at around 10am, passing two northbound 40-day AAWT hikers on my way. While at Hainsworth, I also met a group of five older guys doing a weekender. They had lots of questions about my gear.

After a brief morning tea, I continued on past the Ghost Gully public campground – popular on weekends. Here, I chatted briefly to a lady with an Avan Adventure Plus Aliner! (Jane and I have the Cruisliner model).

I continued on down an unsealed road, and was so in my stride that I almost missed my next turn off – perhaps this was a sign of things to come. The situation got pretty hairy pretty quickly, and taught me a lesson or three!

There was an AAWT sign signalling the start of this section of track, but there was absolutely no track or markers to be seen. I roamed a little aimlessly as I watch my GPS marker shift, trying to align myself with the invisible path. Occasionally I would find foot pads or a light path to follow, but it must have been animal tracks as it led me down the garden path.

Long story short, I found myself well and truly off trail and heading in the wrong direction and had to bush bash my way through clumps of tussock grass (one which sent me tripping to the ground), bushland and over wombat holes to eventually rejoin the ‘trail’.

After I rejoined the invisible trail, the situation improved. I was now able to follow a series of markers (although very far apart) and stay on track with my GPS. I also spotted two hikers in the distance, who’s reputation proceeded them. I’d been told by several other hikers that two older gentlemen were also travelling southbound over 60 days.

It was about time that I bumped into them. We ended up walking the next 10 kilometres or so of trail together, stopping just before the Murrumbidgee water crossing for lunch, where we met a fisherman and highlands explorer who filmed us doing the crossing through shin deep water, barefoot.

From here we crossed the Murrumbidgee once more, hopping across stones. I then broke away from the guys and gunned it to the hut as I was keen to dry out my gear, and sit down.

I lit a lovely fire for the three of us to enjoy, while we shared tales and swapped stories and tips about gear. The guys also brought in their sleeping gear to dry, so it appears we’re all battling with condensation.

I made my best meal of the trip so far – pasta mornay. My legs are weary, and it was a tough day in parts, but I’m glad it ended on a positive note ahead of my journey to Kiandra and Jane, my Trail Angel, tomorrow.

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