Day 16 hiking the Australian Alps Walking Track solo

Australian Alps Walking Trail, Hiking, Trail Journal

Easter dawn, tears and trail magic—dingo standoff, Beneuba Creek wanderings and a gruelling climb to Johnies Top before rain set in.

Buckwong Creek to Johnies Top (23.2km) | TOTAL – 350.5km

I rose at 5.30am on Easter Sunday, making myself porridge and coffee in my tent, which was supported with sticks instead of poles, before quietly packing up so as not to wake the other campers.

I reflected on the day that was – how close I was to pulling the pin and I let out a tear or two, then got to work on preparing for a new day and a new mission.

I offered an emotion-choked thank you and farewell to the tour leader, who showed me such kindness in my moment of need. We exchanged contact details as I’d love to catch up with him one day thank him properly for his trail magic.

The walk out of Buckwong Camp was beautiful, with valleys of trees lining the gnarly track. After a brief stretch on a rather nice unsealed road, I entered the forest, taking a reasonably clear foot track to Beneuba Creek.

On my way, I had a confrontation with a dingo, who was 15 metres down the path and had eyes locked on me. I sounded my whistle, which evoked no response (perhaps being too similar to a howl) then clapped my wooden walking sticks above my head, which sent the dog running.

After crossing a largely unmarked open plain of long grass, I came across some campers at Beneuba – a beautiful campsite bordered by a green valley to the north.

Several campers stood watching me as I – presumably an odd looking specimen – made my slowly closer.

As I neared and waved hello, a lovely gentleman approached to offer me chocolate. More trail magic.

Next, I walked many kilometres along a largely dry Beneuba Creek, feeling thankful that trail angels had recently cleared the track and added a series of pink flags.

This section would have been a pretty intense bush bash and navigational challenge without these recent improvements, according to recent reports.

I stopped for a quick icy bird bath in a lovely section of the creek and topped up my water before crossing paths with another southbound AAWT hiker.

We chatted briefly about his three previous AAWT journeys before parting ways.

It was a gruelling two to three hour climb up a relatively indistinct foot pad to reach Johnies Top (1,570m).

On arrival, I quickly filled up my water bottle at the glorious water tank, and set up my tent in readiness for the rain – 2mm to 5mm expected from late afternoon.